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THE MODE IN HATS AND HEADDRESS
By R. Turner Wilcox

R. Turner Wilcox's THE MODE IN HATS AND HEADDRESS, published in 1945, is a scholarly masterwork of headwear fashion and history. Understand that Ms. Wilcox is not only responsible for the text, but is also the illustrator of the 193 plates appearing below. If the illustrations are not impressive enough, reading her key words and phrases for these twenty-three chapters give some idea of the depth of her knowledge on this frequently arcane subject. I cannot adequately thank R. Turner Wilcox for what she has taught us about the history of the hat business.

Note that Ms. Wilcox's key words and phrases introducing each chapter may or may not have examples in the illustrations, but should help the user who wishes to do further research. The book THE MODE IN HATS AND HEADRESS includes text for each chapter, however this text is not included herein.

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Highlight for Album: Chapter 1 - Ancient Egyptian
Chapter 1 - Ancient Egyptian
Natural hair * shaved heads * wigs * klaft * crowns * fillet * soldier's helmet * insignia * postiche or false beard * cosmetics * ritual cone of perfumed fat * combs * cosmetic containers * children's hair

Last changed on 12/07/2005. This album contains 3 items.
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Highlight for Album: Chapter 2 - Mesopotamian
Chapter 2 - Mesopotamian
Natural hair or wig in ringlets * curling irons * Phrygianize, "to frizzle" * gold dust * yellow starch * cosmetics * heavy eyebrows, a sign of beauty * crown, tiara, or miter * helmet * turban * Phyrgian bonnet * origin of the veil * headdress, a badge of office * felting

Last changed on 03/29/2005. This album contains 2 items.
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Highlight for Album: Chapter 3 - Ancient Greek
Chapter 3 - Ancient Greek
Miter or tiara * first tonsorial establishments * curling irons * Cypriote curls * dyed hair * gold, white, and red powder * origin of word, cosmetic * floral wreaths * hairpins * Tyrian veils * bridal headdress * petasos * pilos * Phrygian cap * helmets

Last changed on 03/29/2005. This album contains 2 items.
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Highlight for Album: Chapter 4 - Ancient Roman
Chapter 4 - Ancient Roman
The Etruscans * the razor * gold dust on hair * baldness considered a deformity * tutulus * pileus * petasus * Phrygian bonnet, emblem of liberty * helmets * emperor's laurel crown * beauty patch * wigs * Cypriote curls * Messalina's yellow wig * cosmetics and attendants * veils * Poppaea's milk bath * the mask

Last changed on 03/29/2005. This album contains 3 items.
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Highlight for Album: Chapter 5 - Byzantine and Ecclesiastic
Chapter 5 - Byzantine and Ecclesiastic
Jeweled crowns, fillets, and caps * colored glass ornaments * pearl headdresses * felting * ecclesiastic vestments * the tonsure * miter * papel tiara * coif or zucchetto * broad-brimmed hat of the clergy * clerical colors

Last changed on 03/29/2005. This album contains 3 items.
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Highlight for Album: Chapter 6 - Saracenic or Moorish - The Turban
Chapter 6 - Saracenic or Moorish - The Turban
The taj * turban * tarboosh * kullah * fez * chechia or tashashit * cosmetics * veils * earrings * velvet * the steel needle

Last changed on 03/29/2005. This album contains 3 items.
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Highlight for Album: Chapter 7 - Medieval or Gothic Europe
Chapter 7 - Medieval or Gothic Europe
Fashion dolls * crisping irons * fillet * bobbed hair * wigs of silk * chaperon, cowl, coif, and brimmed hat * chaperon turban * cockscomb * petal-scalloping * roundlet * liripipe * wearing two hats * cockade * cap and bells of the jester * Robin Hood * beaver, straw, and velvet * origin of milliner, hat, and bonnet * peacock's hats * crowns * ducal bonnet * tipping the hat * wimple * chinband * long braids and ribbands * turret * mortar toque * gorget * chaplet * Saint Catherine * bosses or horns * golden net caul * escoffion * frontlet * gauze * hennin * gable headdress * butterfly headdress * cornet * jeweled calotte * French hood * pins * dyed hair * cosmetics * hair plucking * faceted diamonds

Last changed on 03/29/2005. This album contains 25 items.
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Highlight for Album: Chapter 8 - European Helmets
Chapter 8 - European Helmets
Helmet of boiled leather-spangenhelm * helm * mail * basinet * camail * iron skullcap * iron hat * tilting helmet * ventail * beaver * salute of the hand * barbute * sallet * armet * burganet * morion * cabasset * lobster-tail helmet * notes on armor * heraldry * heaukme with crest * cointise * lambrequin * circlet * orle * panache * jousting

Last changed on 03/29/2005. This album contains 2 items.
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Highlight for Album: Chapter 9 - Renaissance Europe
Chapter 9 - Renaissance Europe
Bob with bangs * silk wig * short hair and beards * starched beards * cosmetics and earrings for men * chaplet * biretta * beret * city flap-cap * montero cap * slashings * escoffion * Spanish toque * Albanian hat * chapeau francais * glove as hat ornament * Juliet cap * ferroniere * attifet style * wigs * hair powder * cosmetics * face-painting * Spanish wool * mask * patch * perfume * pomanders * French hood * gable headdress * miniver cap * mourning * Dutch coif * starching * beguin * widow's cap * bonfrace * huke * nightcaps * pins, needles, and hairpins * pearls * combs

Last changed on 03/29/2005. This album contains 20 items.
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Highlight for Album: Chapter 10 - The Seventeenth Century
Chapter 10 - The Seventeenth Century
Cavalier costume * dress in American Colonies * lovelock * mustache, a curl * cadenette * single pearl earring * rules at Harvard * the Van Dyck * mustache grooming * lip-beard * Roundhead * full-bottemed wig * wigmaking * short bob * campaign wig * soldier's hair * powder * combs * perfume * beaver hat * Puritan, Pilgrim, Quaker * tricorne * Monmouth cock * military headgear * church dress * removing the hat * montero * Monmouth cap * lace * sumptuary edicts * ribbon * wigs or "heads" * English ringlets * sheep headdress * heart-breakers * favorites * veils * wire frames * set-out combs * hurluberlu * cabbage head * boss or bundle * fontange * wig for riding * Spanish coiffure * Champagne * Beau Fielding * Dutch coif * biggin * French hood * Little Red Riding Hood or cardinal * headkerchief * huke * conch * traveling hat * witch's garb * straw * mask * patch * cosmetics * pearls * Temple stones * pins

Last changed on 03/31/2005. This album contains 17 items.
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Highlight for Album: Chapter 11 - The Eighteenth Century
Chapter 11 - The Eighteenth Century
French and English modes * fashion babies * Namby Pamby * Beau Nash * full-bottomed wig * corners * knotted wig * tie wig * bagwig * solitaire * pig-tail wig * Ramillies wig * cadogan * Macaronies * pigeon's wings * Greek toupet * Adonis wig * white powder * Meissen porcelain 8 colored powder * decline of the wig * black silk bag * the flash * the wig in America * papillotes * bewigged stage characters * hedgehog style * cacked hat * carrying the hat * Kevenhuller * Ramillies cock * Nivernois 8 bicorne * Holland or Pennsylvania hat * jockey hat * tall beaver hat * hat-making * Phrygian cap * muscadin * men's earrings * Scotch bonnet * military headgear * the boater * salute of the hand * cockade * pompadour * patted coiffure * feminine wig * powder * extravagant heads * coiffure bottles * tulle * feathers * ingenue coiffure * hedgehog * baby coiffure * hairdressers * Princess de Lambelle * decline of high powdered heads * chapeau-bonnet * Ranelagh mob * dormeuse * Charlotte Corday * gypsy hat * straws * Gainsborough hat * doll hats * turbans * riding hats * Venetian tricorne * lace * French hood * calash * therese 8 veils * mask * patches * cosmetics * toilet water * pearls * eyeglasses * jewelry * Rose Bertin * fashion journal * silhouette

Last changed on 08/23/2008. This album contains 26 items.
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Highlight for Album: Chapter 12 - Directoire 1795-1799
Chapter 12 - Directoire 1795-1799
Incroyable * dog's ears * hoop earrings * Brutus haircut * blond wig and black collar * stovepipe * chapeau bras * bicorne * return of wigs and false hair * classic style * antique oil * Titus cut * a la victime * marveilleuse * helmet * jockey bonnet * capote * classic white * Quaker bonnet * Oriental turban * pearl face powder * jewelry

Last changed on 03/31/2005. This album contains 5 items.
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Highlight for Album: Chapter 13 - French Consulate and Empire 1800-1815
Chapter 13 - French Consulate and Empire 1800-1815
Short haircut * ringlets * side whiskers * soldier's queue * ribbon-banded hat * hunting hat * Wellington hat * Napoleon hat * Glengarry * soft hat * tarbucket * Beau Brummell * Titus cut * a la Psyche * a la chinoise * a la Ninon * antique oil * combs, hairpins, and ferroniere * artificial flowers * poke bonnet * Pamela bonnet * lace caps * turbans * veils * Spanish mantilla * cosmetics * pins

Last changed on 03/31/2005. This album contains 10 items.
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Highlight for Album: Chapter 14 - The Romantic Period 1815-1840
Chapter 14 - The Romantic Period 1815-1840
Side part * Macassar oil * high beaver hat * d'Orsay roll * silk hat * gibus * cap with visor * smoking cap * tam-o-shanter * miltary headgear * felt and straw * a la chinoise * Appollo's knots * ferroniere * chaste bands * white fashionable * turban * fly-away headdress * cornet * arcade * large hats * capote * Pamela bonnet * bibi * bavolet * riding casquette * veils and lace * the bride * fabrics and colors * a la giraffe * jewelry * quizzing glass *

Last changed on 08/28/2008. This album contains 9 items.
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Highlight for Album: Chapter 15 - Victorian and Second Empire 1840-1870
Chapter 15 - Victorian and Second Empire 1840-1870
Men's styles dictated from London * curly hair * cowlick * side whiskers * mutton chops, piccadilly weepers, favoris, cutlets, Dundreays, sideburns * imperial * topper * slouch felt * Hungarian hat * pok pie * sombrero * derby * panama hat * straw sailor * cap with visor * tam-o-shanter * Balmoral * monocle * military headgear * pith helmet * Madonna coiffure * even waves * Manier flowers * fresh Parma voilets * coiffures: Druid, Naiad, Leda, Proserpine, Ceres * net a la Napolitain * lace mantilla * fascinator * bibi * fanchon * drawn bonnet * fabrics * caps * small hat in 1860's * Empress hat * flirtation ribbons * veils * colors * cosmetics * jewelry

Last changed on 03/31/2005. This album contains 11 items.
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Highlight for Album: Chapter 16 - 1870-1880
Chapter 16 - 1870-1880
Trend toward shaven-face * mustache * various hats and caps * Alpine hat * cowboy hat * sennit straw * peaked cap * montero * hand-painted satin linings * monocle * waterfall * cadogan * false hair * piccadilly fringe * spit-curls 8 cadogan bows * gondolier net * tied-back time in fress, hat and coiffure * boudoir cap * bonnet strings * Swedish bonnet * Estelle bonnet * Alsatian bows * midshipman straw * postilion * Tyrolese hat * veils: Spanish, East Indian, Egyptian and bridal * colors * earrings * no make-up

Last changed on 03/31/2005. This album contains 6 items.
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Highlight for Album: Chapter 17 - 1880-1890
Chapter 17 - 1880-1890
Mustache but no beard * top hat * derby * boater * puggree * fedora * white linen cap * simple feminine coiffure * simple ornaments * Lily Langtry wave * Lillian Russell * peroxide blond * hats and bonnets * cabriolet * postilion * midshipman * Breton sailor * masculine sports hats and caps copied * sunbonnet for tennis * complexion protected by veils, shade hats and parasols * no cosmetics * Little Lord Fauntleroy * earrings * eyeglass

Last changed on 03/31/2005. This album contains 7 items.
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Highlight for Album: Chapter 18 - 1890-1900
Chapter 18 - 1890-1900