THE MODE IN HATS AND HEADDRESS
By R. Turner Wilcox

R. Turner Wilcox's THE MODE IN HATS AND HEADDRESS, published in 1945, is a scholarly masterwork of headwear fashion and history. Understand that Ms. Wilcox is not only responsible for the text, but is also the illustrator of the 193 plates appearing below. If the illustrations are not impressive enough, reading her key words and phrases for these twenty-three chapters give some idea of the depth of her knowledge on this frequently arcane subject. I cannot adequately thank R. Turner Wilcox for what she has taught us about the history of the hat business.

Note that Ms. Wilcox's key words and phrases introducing each chapter may or may not have examples in the illustrations, but should help the user who wishes to do further research. The book THE MODE IN HATS AND HEADRESS includes text for each chapter, however this text is not included herein.

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Highlight for album: Chapter 1 - Ancient Egyptian
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Chapter 1 - Ancient Egyptian
Natural hair * shaved heads * wigs * klaft * crowns * fillet * soldier's helmet * insignia * postiche or false beard * cosmetics * ritual cone of perfumed fat * combs * cosmetic containers * children's hair

Last changed on 04/24/09. This album contains 3 items.
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Highlight for album: Chapter 2 - Mesopotamian
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Chapter 2 - Mesopotamian
Natural hair or wig in ringlets * curling irons * Phrygianize, "to frizzle" * gold dust * yellow starch * cosmetics * heavy eyebrows, a sign of beauty * crown, tiara, or miter * helmet * turban * Phyrgian bonnet * origin of the veil * headdress, a badge of office * felting

Last changed on 04/24/09. This album contains 2 items.
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Highlight for album: Chapter 3 - Ancient Greek
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Chapter 3 - Ancient Greek
Miter or tiara * first tonsorial establishments * curling irons * Cypriote curls * dyed hair * gold, white, and red powder * origin of word, cosmetic * floral wreaths * hairpins * Tyrian veils * bridal headdress * petasos * pilos * Phrygian cap * helmets

Last changed on 04/24/09. This album contains 2 items.
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Highlight for album: Chapter 4 - Ancient Roman
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Chapter 4 - Ancient Roman
The Etruscans * the razor * gold dust on hair * baldness considered a deformity * tutulus * pileus * petasus * Phrygian bonnet, emblem of liberty * helmets * emperor's laurel crown * beauty patch * wigs * Cypriote curls * Messalina's yellow wig * cosmetics and attendants * veils * Poppaea's milk bath * the mask

Last changed on 04/24/09. This album contains 3 items.
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Highlight for album: Chapter 5 - Byzantine and Ecclesiastic
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Chapter 5 - Byzantine and Ecclesiastic
Jeweled crowns, fillets, and caps * colored glass ornaments * pearl headdresses * felting * ecclesiastic vestments * the tonsure * miter * papel tiara * coif or zucchetto * broad-brimmed hat of the clergy * clerical colors

Last changed on 04/24/09. This album contains 3 items.
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Highlight for album: Chapter 6 - Saracenic or Moorish - The Turban
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Chapter 6 - Saracenic or Moorish - The Turban
The taj * turban * tarboosh * kullah * fez * chechia or tashashit * cosmetics * veils * earrings * velvet * the steel needle

Last changed on 04/24/09. This album contains 3 items.
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Highlight for album: Chapter 7 - Medieval or Gothic Europe
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Chapter 7 - Medieval or Gothic Europe
Fashion dolls * crisping irons * fillet * bobbed hair * wigs of silk * chaperon, cowl, coif, and brimmed hat * chaperon turban * cockscomb * petal-scalloping * roundlet * liripipe * wearing two hats * cockade * cap and bells of the jester * Robin Hood * beaver, straw, and velvet * origin of milliner, hat, and bonnet * peacock's hats * crowns * ducal bonnet * tipping the hat * wimple * chinband * long braids and ribbands * turret * mortar toque * gorget * chaplet * Saint Catherine * bosses or horns * golden net caul * escoffion * frontlet * gauze * hennin * gable headdress * butterfly headdress * cornet * jeweled calotte * French hood * pins * dyed hair * cosmetics * hair plucking * faceted diamonds

Last changed on 04/24/09. This album contains 25 items.
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Highlight for album: Chapter 8 - European Helmets
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Chapter 8 - European Helmets
Helmet of boiled leather-spangenhelm * helm * mail * basinet * camail * iron skullcap * iron hat * tilting helmet * ventail * beaver * salute of the hand * barbute * sallet * armet * burganet * morion * cabasset * lobster-tail helmet * notes on armor * heraldry * heaukme with crest * cointise * lambrequin * circlet * orle * panache * jousting

Last changed on 04/24/09. This album contains 2 items.
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Highlight for album: Chapter 9 - Renaissance Europe
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Chapter 9 - Renaissance Europe
Bob with bangs * silk wig * short hair and beards * starched beards * cosmetics and earrings for men * chaplet * biretta * beret * city flap-cap * montero cap * slashings * escoffion * Spanish toque * Albanian hat * chapeau francais * glove as hat ornament * Juliet cap * ferroniere * attifet style * wigs * hair powder * cosmetics * face-painting * Spanish wool * mask * patch * perfume * pomanders * French hood * gable headdress * miniver cap * mourning * Dutch coif * starching * beguin * widow's cap * bonfrace * huke * nightcaps * pins, needles, and hairpins * pearls * combs

Last changed on 04/24/09. This album contains 20 items.
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Highlight for album: Chapter 10 - The Seventeenth Century
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Chapter 10 - The Seventeenth Century
Cavalier costume * dress in American Colonies * lovelock * mustache, a curl * cadenette * single pearl earring * rules at Harvard * the Van Dyck * mustache grooming * lip-beard * Roundhead * full-bottemed wig * wigmaking * short bob * campaign wig * soldier's hair * powder * combs * perfume * beaver hat * Puritan, Pilgrim, Quaker * tricorne * Monmouth cock * military headgear *
church dress * removing the hat * montero * Monmouth cap * lace * sumptuary edicts * ribbon * wigs or "heads" * English ringlets * sheep headdress * heart-breakers * favorites * veils * wire frames * set-out combs * hurluberlu * cabbage head * boss or bundle * fontange * wig for riding * Spanish coiffure * Champagne * Beau Fielding * Dutch coif * biggin * French hood * Little Red Riding Hood or cardinal * headkerchief * huke * conch * traveling hat * witch's garb * straw * mask * patch * cosmetics * pearls * Temple stones * pins

Last changed on 04/24/09. This album contains 17 items.
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Highlight for album: Chapter 11 - The Eighteenth Century
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Chapter 11 - The Eighteenth Century
French and English modes * fashion babies * Namby Pamby * Beau Nash * full-bottomed wig * corners * knotted wig * tie wig * bagwig * solitaire * pig-tail wig * Ramillies wig * cadogan * Macaronies * pigeon's wings * Greek toupet * Adonis wig * white powder * Meissen porcelain 8 colored powder * decline of the wig * black silk bag * the flash * the wig in America * papillotes * bewigged stage characters * hedgehog style * cacked hat * carrying the hat * Kevenhuller * Ramillies cock * Nivernois 8 bicorne * Holland or Pennsylvania hat * jockey hat * tall beaver hat * hat-making * Phrygian cap * muscadin * men's earrings * Scotch bonnet * military headgear * the boater * salute of the hand * cockade * pompadour * patted coiffure * feminine wig * powder * extravagant heads * coiffure bottles * tulle * feathers * ingenue coiffure * hedgehog * baby coiffure * hairdressers * Princess de Lambelle * decline of high powdered heads * chapeau-bonnet * Ranelagh mob * dormeuse * Charlotte Corday * gypsy hat * straws * Gainsborough hat * doll hats * turbans * riding hats * Venetian tricorne * lace * French hood * calash * therese 8 veils * mask * patches * cosmetics * toilet water * pearls * eyeglasses * jewelry * Rose Bertin * fashion journal * silhouette

Last changed on 04/24/09. This album contains 26 items.
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Highlight for album: Chapter 12 - Directoire 1795-1799
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Chapter 12 - Directoire 1795-1799
Incroyable * dog's ears * hoop earrings * Brutus haircut * blond wig and black collar * stovepipe * chapeau bras * bicorne * return of wigs and false hair * classic style * antique oil * Titus cut * a la victime * marveilleuse * helmet * jockey bonnet * capote * classic white * Quaker bonnet * Oriental turban * pearl face powder * jewelry

Last changed on 04/24/09. This album contains 5 items.
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Highlight for album: Chapter 13 - French Consulate and Empire 1800-1815
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Chapter 13 - French Consulate and Empire 1800-1815
Short haircut * ringlets * side whiskers * soldier's queue * ribbon-banded hat * hunting hat * Wellington hat * Napoleon hat * Glengarry * soft hat * tarbucket * Beau Brummell * Titus cut * a la Psyche * a la chinoise * a la Ninon * antique oil * combs, hairpins, and ferroniere * artificial flowers * poke bonnet * Pamela bonnet * lace caps * turbans * veils * Spanish mantilla * cosmetics * pins

Last changed on 04/24/09. This album contains 10 items.
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Highlight for album: Chapter 14 - The Romantic Period 1815-1840
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Chapter 14 - The Romantic Period 1815-1840
Side part * Macassar oil * high beaver hat * d'Orsay roll * silk hat * gibus * cap with visor * smoking cap * tam-o-shanter * miltary headgear * felt and straw * a la chinoise * Appollo's knots * ferroniere * chaste bands * white fashionable * turban * fly-away headdress * cornet * arcade * large hats * capote * Pamela bonnet * bibi * bavolet * riding casquette * veils and lace * the bride * fabrics and colors * a la giraffe * jewelry * quizzing glass *

Last changed on 04/24/09. This album contains 9 items.
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Highlight for album: Chapter 15 - Victorian and Second Empire 1840-1870
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Chapter 15 - Victorian and Second Empire 1840-1870
Men's styles dictated from London * curly hair * cowlick * side whiskers * mutton chops, piccadilly weepers, favoris, cutlets, Dundreays, sideburns * imperial * topper * slouch felt * Hungarian hat * pok pie * sombrero * derby * panama hat * straw sailor * cap with visor * tam-o-shanter * Balmoral * monocle * military headgear * pith helmet * Madonna coiffure * even waves * Manier flowers * fresh Parma voilets * coiffures: Druid, Naiad, Leda, Proserpine, Ceres * net a la Napolitain * lace mantilla * fascinator * bibi * fanchon * drawn bonnet * fabrics * caps * small hat in 1860's * Empress hat * flirtation ribbons * veils * colors * cosmetics * jewelry

Last changed on 11/19/09. This album contains 11 items.
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Highlight for album: Chapter 16 - 1870-1880
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Chapter 16 - 1870-1880
Trend toward shaven-face * mustache * various hats and caps * Alpine hat * cowboy hat * sennit straw * peaked cap * montero * hand-painted satin linings * monocle * waterfall * cadogan * false hair * piccadilly fringe * spit-curls 8 cadogan bows * gondolier net * tied-back time in fress, hat and coiffure * boudoir cap * bonnet strings * Swedish bonnet * Estelle bonnet * Alsatian bows * midshipman straw * postilion * Tyrolese hat * veils: Spanish, East Indian, Egyptian and bridal * colors * earrings * no make-up

Last changed on 11/19/09. This album contains 6 items.
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Highlight for album: Chapter 17 - 1880-1890
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Chapter 17 - 1880-1890
Mustache but no beard * top hat * derby * boater * puggree * fedora * white linen cap * simple feminine coiffure * simple ornaments * Lily Langtry wave * Lillian Russell * peroxide blond * hats and bonnets * cabriolet * postilion * midshipman * Breton sailor * masculine sports hats and caps copied * sunbonnet for tennis * complexion protected by veils, shade hats and parasols * no cosmetics * Little Lord Fauntleroy * earrings * eyeglass

Last changed on 11/19/09. This album contains 7 items.
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Highlight for album: Chapter 18 - 1890-1900
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Chapter 18 - 1890-1900
Gilded Age * clean-shaven with mustache * the dude * the Van Dyck * football haircut * hats and caps here to stay * topper * derby * Homburg * boater * panama or planter's hat * rough rider hat * E. Berry Wall * simple feminine coiffure * Psyche knot * figure eight * French roll * marcel wave * steel hairpins * few cosmetics * cold cream and talcum powder * hats with upstanding ornamentation * for sports: fedora, tam-o-shanter, sailor * veils * Kate Greenaway * the Gibson girl

Last changed on 11/19/09. This album contains 6 items.
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Highlight for album: Chapter 19 - 1900-1910
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Chapter 19 - 1900-1910
London fashions for men * Paris for women * masculine coiffure * mustache, Van Dyck, side whiskers rare * men's hat styles stabilized * aviator's cap * Andre de Fouquiere * pompadour dressed over rat * side part * marcel wave * permanent wave * henna dye * change in coiffure silhoutte * combs * invisible hairpin * large hats * hats off in theater * Gainsborough hat * Merry Widow hat * sailor * willow ostrich plume * National Audubon Society * Easter Sunday * automobiling * sports hats * veils * beauty shops *earrings * eyeglasses

Last changed on 11/19/09. This album contains 5 items.
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Highlight for album: Chapter 20 - 1910-1920
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Chapter 20 - 1910-1920
Clean-shaven * small mustache * Basque beret, men and women * soldier's overseas cap, tin hat and gas-mask * small feminine head * transformation * hair cut over cheeks * Dutch bob * permanent wave * henna dye * invisible hair net * Paul Poiret's Oriental influence * Russian Headdress * large crowns * silk sailor * simple black hat after the war * hatpins purely ornamental * boudoir cap * earrings * growth of beauty aids and beauty parlors

Last changed on 11/19/09. This album contains 7 items.
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Highlight for album: Chapter 21 - 1920-1930
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Chapter 21 - 1920-1930
Men's hats * handkerchief felt * Prince of Wales * sombrero * hatless mode * feminine bobbed hair * Dutch cut, shingle, wind-blown bob * long earrings * transformations * tinting gray hair * plastic set-lotion * permanent wave * bobby pin * decline of hat trimming * Oriental turban * untrimmed cloche * riding headgear * cosmetics in general use * Hollywood * plucked eyebrows * sun-tan * toilet water for men * spectacles

Last changed on 11/19/09. This album contains 6 items.
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Highlight for album: Chapter 22 - 1930-1940
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Chapter 22 - 1930-1940
Men's hats * straw weaves * Montego hat * English flat-cap * lacquered feminine hair * return of 1890 coiffure * bangs * pompadour * cadogan * page boy bob * shoulder-length hair * curled ends * half-wig * platinum blond * dyes and bleaches * patch-test * Eugenie hat * doll hats * shocking pink * snood * wimple * headkerchief * parka * turban * Tyrolese felt hat * Juliet cap * artificial flowers * veils * general use of cosmetics mouth enlarged by make-up * earrings

Last changed on 11/19/09. This album contains 5 items.
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Highlight for album: Chapter 23 - 1940-1944
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Chapter 23 - 1940-1944
World War II * fall of France * London and New York carry on * military headgear * feminine hair dressed up and down * feather cut * scarcity of bobby pins * cap-like transformations * cold chemical wave * gray hair tinted * cosmetics * no Paris bonnet * war restrictions in fabrics * waried styles in headatire * babushka * ornamented snood * bowknots and artificial flowers * beret with jewels * new large hats * warworkers's headdress * spectacles * jewelry

Last changed on 11/19/09. This album contains 10 items.

 
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